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Material Culture. Henry Glassie. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 1999. 413 pp.

Cover -- Contents -- Acknowledgements -- Introduction: Material Cultures in Canada, Material Cultures Now -- PART I: MATERIALITIES -- 1 The Work of the Beaver -- 2 Night in a Box: Anne Carson's Nox and the Materiality of Elegy -- 3 Maxims and Contraries: Notes from a Project in Process -- 4 The Geranium in the Window: One Plant's Literary Hardiness in the Canadian Imagination -- 5 Is It Still a Cinch?: The Transformational Properties of Objects in Guy Vanderhaeghe's The Last Crossing -- PART II: IMMATERIALITIES -- 6 Obama's Playlist: Materializing Transnational Desire at the CBC

Cover -- Half Title -- Title -- Copyright -- Dedication -- Contents -- Acknowledgements -- Bibliography -- Introduction to Victorian Material Culture -- Introduction to Volume I: Raw Materials -- Part 1 Animal kingdom -- 1.1 Meat -- 1 Charles Dickens, Oliver Twist: A Parish Boy's Progress -- 2 Arthur Lloyd, 'American Beef' -- 3 Upton Sinclair, The Jungle -- 4 Joseph Conrad, 'An Anarchist', A Set of Six -- 5 Charlotte Perkins Gilman, Herland -- 1.2 Animal products: blubber/baleen, fur, ivory -- 6 Herman Melville, Moby Dick -- or, The Whale -- 7 Elizabeth Gaskell, Sylvia's Lovers -- 8 William Edward Traill, Fur Trade Letters of Willie Traill: 1864-1918 -- 9 Pauline E. Johnson, 'The Cattle Thief' -- 10 Arthur H. Neumann, Elephant-Hunting in East Equatorial Africa: Being an Account of Three Years' Ivory-Hunting Under Mount Kenia and among the Ndoorobo Savages of the Lorogi Mountains, including a Trip to the North of Lake Reudolph -- 11 Thomas Mofolo, Chaka: An Historical Romance -- Part 2 Vegetable kingdom -- 2.1 Agriculture and trade -- 12 Harriet Martineau, 'Maternal Economy', from 'Cinnamon and pearls' -- 13 Mary Kingsley, Travels in West Africa -- 14 Joseph J. Walters, 'Sundry Experiences' -- 2.2 Cotton -- 15 Karl Marx, 'The Labor Process or the Production of Use Values' and 'The Production of Surplus Value' -- 16 Solomon Northup, Twelve Years a Slave -- 17 Frances Ellen Watkins Harper, 'Free Labor' -- 18 [Unknown], 'The Mill Hand's Petition' -- 19 Elizabeth Twining, 'A Lecture on Cotton: Given at the Working People's Rooms, Portugal Street, Lincoln's Inn' -- 2.3 Sugar -- 20 James Grainger, The Sugar Cane -- 21 Frieda Cassin, With Silent Tread: A West Indian Novel -- 22 Claude McKay, 'Two-An'-Six', Songs -- 2.4 Indigo, opium and tea -- 23 Dinabandhu Mitra, Nil Darpan -- or the Indigo -- 24 Zhang Changjia, 'Opium Talk'.

Material Cultures in Canada presents the vibrant and diverse field of material culture studies in Canadian literary, artistic, and political contexts today. The first of its kind, this collection features sixteen essays by leading scholars in Canada, each of whom examines a different object of study, including the beaver, geraniums, comics, water, a musical playlist, and the human body. The book's three sections focus, in turn, on objects that are persistently material, on things whose materiality blends into the immaterial, and on the materials of spaces. Contributors highlight some of the most exciting new developments in the field, such as the emergence of "new materialism," affect theory, globalization studies, and environmental criticism. Although the book has a Canadian centre, the majority of its contributors consider objects that cross borders or otherwise resist national affiliation. This collection will be valuable not only to readers interested in material culture studies but to anyone interested in the central debates taking place in Canadian political and cultural life today, such as climate change, citizenship, shifts in urban and small-town life, and the persistence of imperialism

Cover -- Half Title -- Title -- Copyright -- Contents -- Acknowledgements -- Bibliography -- Introduction to Volume IV: The industrial revolution and the mass production of commodities -- Part 1 The context of manufacturing in Victorian Britain -- 1 'Peel's Velveteens' -- 2 George Dodd, Days at the Factories, or the Manufacturing Industries of Great Britain Described [extract] -- 3 Richard H. Horne, 'The Female School of Design in the Capital of the World' -- 4 Image: 'Calico Printing' -- 5 John Capper, 'The Northern Wizard' -- 6 Anon, 'Help for Women' -- 7 Karl Marx, 'The Fetishism of Commodities and the Secret Thereof' -- 8 Anon, 'Sewing Machines' -- 9 Lyon Playfair, 'On Patents and the New Patent Bill' -- 10 J. T. Slugg, Reminiscences of Manchester Fifty Years Ago -- Part 2 Textiles -- 2.1 Fabrics -- 11 Edward Baines, History of Cotton Manufacture in Great Britain -- 12 Anon, 'A Day at the Nottingham Lace Manufactories' -- 13 Charles Dickens and W. H. Wills, 'Spitalfields' -- 14 John Capper, 'British Cotton' -- 15 Elizabeth Gaskell, North and South -- 16 Edward Baines, 'On the Woollen Manufacture of England -- With Special Reference to the Leeds Clothing District' -- 17 'The Diary of John Ward of Clitheroe, Weaver 1860-64' -- 18 Image: 'Cotton Printing' -- 19 Image: 'Wool Machinery' -- 20 Image: 'Weaving Looms' -- 21 Anon, 'Honiton Lace' -- 22 William Morris, 'Textile Fabrics' -- 23 Anon, 'French Lace' -- 2.2 Clothing -- 24 Thomas Hood, 'The Song of the Shirt' -- 25 Harriet Martineau, 'Rainbow Making' -- 26 Samuel Sidney, 'A Ladies' Warehouse' -- 27 Mrs Henry Wood, Mrs Halliburton's Troubles -- 28 Anon, 'Gloves' -- 29 Anon, 'A Crinoline Manufactory' -- 30 Edith Simcox, 'Eight Years of Co-operative Shirtmaking' -- 31 Ada Heather-Bigg, 'Women and the Glove Trade' -- 2.3 Carpets -- 32 'Carpets'.

Cover -- Half Title -- Title -- Copyright -- Contents -- Keywords -- Bibliography -- Introduction to Volume III: A machine age - Victorian writing about inventions and technological things -- Part 1 The march of invention -- 1 Alexander Somerville, The Autobiography of a Working Man [extract] -- 2 John Stoughton, The Palace of Glass and the Gathering of the People: A Book for the Exhibition [extract] -- 3 Michael Angelo Garvey, The Silent Revolution, or the Future Effects of Steam and Electricity upon the Conditions of Mankind [extract] -- 4 Alfred, Lord Tennyson, 'Ode for the Opening of the International Exhibition' -- 5 F. R. Conder, 'The Best Friend of the Working Man' [extract] -- 6 'The World in a Hurry' -- 7 'The Latest Patent' -- 8 A. R. Bennett, On the Telephoning of Great Cities [extract] -- 9 Alfred Russel Wallace, The Wonderful Century: Its Successes and Failures [extract] -- Part 2 Transport -- 2.1 Third-class rail travel -- 10 Railway Reform: Its Expediency and Practicability Considered [extract] -- 11 'Railway Politeness' and 'The Third Class Traveller's Petition' -- 12 D. T. Timins, 'From Roofless Pen to Corridor Coach: The Evolution of the 3rd Class Carriage on the South Eastern Railway' [extract] -- 2.2 Metropolitan underground railway -- 13 J. Hain Friswell, 'A Journey Underground' -- 14 Simon Sterne, 'The Greathead Underground Electric Railway' [extract] -- 15 Fred T. Jane, 'The Romance of Modern London, III: Round the Underground on an Engine' -- 2.3 Tricycle and bicycle -- 16 'Women on Wheels' -- 17 'The Social Effect of Bicycling' -- 18 E. B. Turner, 'Health on the Bicycle' -- 19 Cesare Lombroso, 'The Bicycle and Crime' -- 2.4 Horseless carriage -- 20 J. Munro, 'Carriages Without Horses' -- 21 [H. Cunningham], 'Horseless Carriages' [extract] -- Part 3 Illumination -- 3.1 Gas light and electric light -- 22 'Electric Lighting'.

Cover -- Half Title -- Title -- Copyright -- Contents -- Acknowledgements -- Bibliography -- Introduction to Volume II: Science and Medicine -- Part 1 Practice -- 1.1 Natural philosophy -- 1 George Adams, 'On the Nature and Properties of Air' -- 1.2 Astronomy and navigation -- 2 Neville Maskelyne, 'Draft instructions for John Crosley to go on a voyage to New Holland on board HMS Investigator' -- 3 John Frederick William Herschel, 'Of the Nature of Astronomical Instruments and Observations in General' -- 4 George Biddell Airy, 'Astronomy' -- 1.3 Meteorology -- 5 Luke Howard, 'Of the Barometer' -- 6 John Frederick William Herschel, 'Of Meteorological Instruments -- and first, of the Barometer and its attached Thermometer' -- 7 Robert H. Scott, 'Kew Marine Barometer' -- 1.4 Geography and exploration -- 8 Francis Galton, 'Letter Addressed by Francis Galton, Esq., to the Secretary', in 'Hints to Travellers', Journal of the Royal Geographical Society -- 9 William Ford Stanley, 'Packing of Instruments', in Surveying and Levelling Instruments Theoretically and Practically Described -- 1.5 Metrology -- 10 Charles Piazzi Smyth, 'Instrumentals', in Life and Work at the Great Pyramid -- 1.6 Natural history -- 11 Charles Darwin, 'Geology' -- 12 Richard Owen, 'Zoology' -- 13 William Hooker, 'Botany' -- 14 J. C. Prichard, 'Ethnology' -- 1.7 Microscopy -- 15 Charles R. Goring, 'On Mr. Tulley's thick aplanatic object-glasses, for diverging rays -- with an account of a few microscopic test objects' -- 16 Jabez Hogg, 'Introduction', in The Microscope -- 17 Charles Darwin, 'On the use of the microscope on board ship' -- 1.8 Medicine -- 18 René-Théophile-Hyacinthe Laennec, 'Introduction', and John Forbes, 'Explanation of the Plates', in A Treatise on the Diseases of the Chest, and on Mediate Auscultation -- 19 D. M. Cammann, 'An Historical Sketch of the Stethoscope'.

Cover -- Half Title -- Title -- Copyright -- Contents -- Acknowledgements -- Bibliography -- Introduction to Volume V: Fashionable Things -- Part 1 Embodying Fashionability -- 1.1 Context -- 1 H. R. H., 'A Complaint.' -- 2 Mrs Merrifield, 'How Far Should the Fashions be Followed?' -- 3 [Anon], 'Conduct and Carriage -- Or, Rules to Guide a Young Lady on Points of Etiquette and Good Breeding in her Intercourse with the World.' -- 4 [Caroline Stephen], 'Thoughtfulness in Dress.' -- 5 [Anon], 'A Lady's Question: What Shall We Wear?' -- 6 E. P. [Emily Pfeiffer], 'The Tyranny of Fashion.' -- 7 Mrs H. R. Haweis, 'Importance of Dress.' -- 8 [Anon], Statement and 'Editorial Note', The Rational Dress Society's Gazette -- 1.2 Outlines -- contours -- boundaries -- 1.2.1 Shaping the silhouette: the corset and the crinolette -- 9 Madame Roxey A. [Ann] Caplin, 'On Gestation.' -- 10 Image: advertisement, 'The London Corset Company' -- 11 Image: photograph of crinolette, Great Britain, ca. 1870 (made) -- 1.2.2 The 'Grecian Bend', 'Little Feet' and the 'Alexandra Limp' -- 12 Uncle Grumbler, '"The Grecian Bend."' -- 13 S. L. B., 'The Lady with the Little Feet.' -- 14 Image: [Anon], '"The Grecian Bend."' -- 15 [Anon], 'General News.' -- 16 [Anon], 'Fashion's Follies.' -- 1.2.3 The 'Dolly Varden': a literary fashion -- 17 Charles Dickens, Barnaby Rudge -- A Tale of the Riots of 'Eighty. -- 18 Image: G. W. Hunt, 'Dolly Varden' (music title page) -- 19 The Silkworm, 'Spinnings in Town.' -- 20 [Anon], 'Dolly Vardens.' -- 21 [Anon], 'Observations on London and Parisian Fashions.' -- 1.3 Cosmetics -- 22 [Anon], 'Materials for the Toilette. VIII. On Cosmetics.' -- 23 Advertisement for Pears's Rouge & -- Pears's Pearl Powder -- 24 'Rouge.' -- 25 Charles Reade, 'A Simpleton. A Story of the Day.' -- 26 Medicus, 'The Toilet-Table, and What Should Lie Thereon'.

An informative overview of the materiality of Asian cultures and the ways in which objects and practices can embody and also exhibit individual as well as collective tastes and values.

This exciting, richly illustrated volume gives the reader a unique insight into the materiality of Asian cultures and the ways in which objects and practices can simultaneously embody and exhibit aesthetic and functional characteristics, everyday and spiritual aspirations. Material culture is examined from a variety of perspectives and the authors rigorously investigate the creation and meaning of material object, and their associated practices within the context of time and place. All chapters in this volume are representative, rather than exhaustive, in their portrayal of Asian material culture. Nevertheless, they clearly demonstrate that the objects, seen as material evidence of culture, are entities that resonate with discourses of human relationships, personal and group identity formation, ethics and values, histories, determination of ethnicity, local and international trade, consumption and above all distinctive futures.
1 Asian Material Culture in Context / Marianne Hulsbosch, Elizabeth Bedford & Martha Chaiklin
2 Moon Cakes and the Chinese Mid-Autumn Festival: A Matter of Habitus / Elizabeth Bedford
3 Up in the Hair: Strands of Meaning in Women's Ornamental Hair Accessories in Early Modern Japan / Martha Chaiklin
4 Nonya Beadwork and Contemporary Peranakan Chinese Culture in Singapore and Malaysia / Hwei-Fe'n Cheah
5 Everybody Was Kung-Fu Fighting: The Lion Dance and Chinese National Identity in the 19th and 20th Centuries / Heleanor B. Feltham
6 Works Like a Charm: Cultural Tourism, Colour and its Efficacy in Chinese Miao Traditional Dress / Samantha Hauw
7 Fluttering Like Flowers in a Summer Breeze: Hair Jewellery of Christian Moluccan Women of the Dutch East Indies / Marianne Hulsbosch
8 Tension on the Back-Strap Loom / Audrey Low

Cover -- Contents -- List of Figures -- Notes on Contributors -- Preface to the Second Edition -- Introduction: Material culture history: Methods, practices and disciplines Anne Gerritsen and Giorgio Riello -- Object in focus 1: Broken saints, house cats, other historical matter Dana Leibsohn -- Part I: The Disciplines of Material Culture -- 1 Material culture and the history of art(efacts) Viccy Coltman -- 2 Written texts and the performance of materiality Catherine Richardson -- 3 Anthropology, archaeology, history and the material culture of Lycra® Kaori O'Connor -- Object in focus 2: Material culture, archaeology and defining modernity: Case studies in ceramic research David Gaimster -- Object in focus 3: Father Amiot's cup: A Qing imperial porcelain sent to the court of Louis XV Kee Il Choi Jr -- Object in focus 4: Broken objects: Using archaeological ceramics in the study of material culture Suzanne Findlen Hood -- Object in focus 5: Writing our Maritime Pasts: The Belitung Shipwreck Controversy Natali Pearson -- Object in focus 6: Identity, heritage and memorialization: The Toraja Tongkonan of Indonesia Kathleen M. Adams -- Object in focus 7: History by design: The UK Board of Trade Design Register Dinah Eastop -- Part II: The Methods of Material Culture -- 4 Spaces of global interactions: The material landscapes of global history Anne Gerritsen and Giorgio Riello -- 5 Material culture and materialism: The French Revolution in wallpaper Ulrich Lehmann -- 6 How things shape us: Material culture and identity in the industrial age Manuel Charpy -- Object in focus 8: Invisible beds: Health and the material culture of sleep Sandra Cavallo -- Object in focus 9: Material culture and sound: A sixteenth-century handbell Flora Dennis.